Under the Ginkgo Tree, Botanical Gardens 12/15/24
By Nina Singh-Hudson
Published on December 22, 2024 - hoodline
Four Kings has swiftly risen as the bastion of modern Cantonese cuisine nestled in a San Francisco enclave rich with history and tradition. This newcomer has not only been crowned Restaurant of the Year by Esquire, but also snagged the Eater SF's Restaurant of the Year award, marking its extraordinary emergence on the American food scene.
While Chinatown’s cultural touchstones like Sam Wo face uncertain futures, as Esquire acknowledged in the award announcement, the energy and cuisine at Four Kings suggest a renaissance in the historic neighborhood, Sam Wo’s potential closure signals a broader trend of Chinatowns diminishing under the relentless march of gentrification and economic pressures that has not spared storied establishments, Four Kings, with chefs Franky Ho and Michael Long at the helm, has set a course to not only honor but to rejuvenate the Chinatown spirit "You can’t help but notice the symbolism: Ho and Long represent a new guard that could help bring Chinatown roaring back," noted Omar Mamoon in his Esquire coverage.
Such accolades for Four Kings align with broader national movements in dining. Los Angeles emerged as a strong contender showcasing establishments like Azizam and Camélia, which brought sizzling flavors and an artistic fusion to the California food mosaic. Yet, no city's story is singular. Across the country, from the Puerto Rican and Mediterranean twists in Philadelphia to the Afro-Caribbean cuisine of Dogon in Washington, D.C., the culinary landscape weaves a diversely delicious narrative, reflecting America’s melting pot of flavors and experiences.
And the taste of triumph is not just limited to Four Kings, Esquire's comprehensive list endorsed a multitude of dining destinations like New York’s innovative Demo and the superb 7 Adams in San Francisco, itself recognized for an affable tasting menu and one Michelin star it received in August 2024, but clear, Four Kings isn't just a flash in the pan, through their savory delights like clay-pot rice and fifteen-per-night squabs perfected over a ten-day preparation process, they're setting the benchmark for culinary innovation paired with a profound community ethic according to San Francisco Gate.
It’s clear that the spirit of innovation, respect for tradition, and community involvement are the prime ingredients elevating establishments like Four Kings. These restaurants aren't just serving meals; they're creating cultural symphonies savored with each bite and resonating well beyond their neighborhoods' boundaries, fueling a dialogue on the evolving American culinary panorama and the forces shaping it from the plate upwards.
And the taste of triumph is not just limited to Four Kings, Esquire's comprehensive list endorsed a multitude of dining destinations like New York’s innovative Demo and the superb 7 Adams in San Francisco, itself recognized for an affable tasting menu and one Michelin star it received in August 2024, but clear, Four Kings isn't just a flash in the pan, through their savory delights like clay-pot rice and fifteen-per-night squabs perfected over a ten-day preparation process, they're setting the benchmark for culinary innovation paired with a profound community ethic according to San Francisco Gate.
It’s clear that the spirit of innovation, respect for tradition, and community involvement are the prime ingredients elevating establishments like Four Kings. These restaurants aren't just serving meals; they're creating cultural symphonies savored with each bite and resonating well beyond their neighborhoods' boundaries, fueling a dialogue on the evolving American culinary panorama and the forces shaping it from the plate upwards.
SF's Four Kings Crowned Esquire's Restaurant of the Year Amid Chinatown Renaissance
Greg